2019 San Fereolo 'Costa Di Valanche' (white/skin contact)
2019 San Fereolo Coste di Valanche Vino Bianco
Piedmont, Italy
Grapes: Riesling, Gewurztraminer
SEPTEMBER DAME WINE CLUB PICK
Our spotlight for the thinkers selections this month shines bright on two of our favorite women winemakers. To describe Nicoletta Bocca as a badass would be an understatement. She is the daughter of a well-known Italian political writer, and her longtime U.S. importer Rosenthal Wines notes, “the anti-elitist political undercurrents of her winemaking philosophy are undeniable. Whereas she could easily triple her production of Nebbiolo and become an overnight sensation (as anyone who has tasted her “Il Provinciale”—a Nebbiolo that bests much Barolo in its elegance and unfettered expression—can attest), she is steadfastly committed to the underdog Dolcetto, and even speaks dismissively and regretfully about Nebbiolo’s aristocratic perfection. Despite her long-aged flagship wine’s immense cost of production and storage (four years in large Slavonian oak), her prices remain defiantly low.”
And while she has made a name for herself in the wine world for being a champion of Dolcetto, one of our all-time favorite Italian wines is Nicoletta’s Coste di Riavolo—a skin-contact Riesling and Gewurztraminer blend. In recent years, the vineyards she sourced grapes for this wine had to be pulled, after they fell prey to Flavescenza Dorata. The bacterial agent has recently been named Candidatus Phytoplasma vitis, and its vector is the leafhopper (we had to look this up too—it’s an epidemic vineyard disease) – farming man…it is tough work.
Thankfully, she found another vineyard to work with, which means we are all exceptionally lucky to be able to drink Nicoletta’s Coste di Valanche. It remains a delightful blend of Riesling (90%) and Gewurztraminer (10%), but due to both the new vineyard source and the work in the cellar, the resulting wine is a touch lighter, brighter, more ethereal. Still one of our all time favorites. I like it even better than the wonderful Coste di Riavolo.
I want to hang with her. Italy also seems to be the place to go for eyewear. If anyone has any local recommendations for readers and blue light glasses for small heads…holler!
2019 San Fereolo Vino Bianco 'Costa Di Valanche' 2019
Riesling, Gewurztraminer
Piedmont, Italy
“After her source vineyard for the beloved skin-contact white “Coste di Riavolo” suffered excessively from Flavescenza Dorata and had to be pulled up, Nicoletta planted Riesling and Gewurztraminer, two varieties she loves very much, in the upper reaches of the Rocca Ciglie vineyard in Dogliani at 650 meters altitude. The resultant “Coste di Valanche” comprises 90% Riesling and 10% Gewurztraminer, fermented spontaneously and macerated on its skins for five days. This is a somewhat briefer period of contact than she employed for the Coste di Riavolo, and, combined with the elegance-enhancing character of the new source vineyard, the wine is brighter, finer, and slightly more delicate than its predecessor.” -Rosenthal Wine Merchant
